Adornment of the body

The concept of beautification of the body has been a variable factor in different
societies and at different periods in history. This is done through 4 different
methods of Body Modification, Scarification, Tattooing and Body painting.
Body modification has many examples of which one is the now-abolished
practice of Chinese foot binding. This ancient custom, considered as the
ultimate expression of feminine beauty and social status by a Chinese woman,
was to have a tiny ‘lotus’ foot by tying the foot tightly in a way which, in time,
would create a man-made artificial heel. Similarly the custom of wearing large
circular lip plates by the Kichepo women in Sudan is yet another example of
reshaping of the body. The women would consider themselves undressed
without their lip plates and would never be seen in public without them. The
Paduang tribe also known as Kayans, have a tradition of artificially elongating
the necks of girls and women with a series of brass rings.
2 Scarification is an indication of status and
tribal identification in some African cultures.
Elaborate incisions in a delicate pattern are
made in certain parts of a person’s body. The
painful incisions must be endured without any
signs of physical distress or pain. Natural skin
irritants are rubbed into the skin which, on
healing, leave characteristic scars and raised
pattern-like marks on the face and body that
identify the individual as an adult member of
the tribe.
Body Tattooing involves a permanent change in body colour based on the
insertion of an indelible dye in the punctured skin. Tattooing was used by the
Thracians to indicate rank. In some African societies women’s foreheads were
tattooed so that if captured by rivals, she could be sold back to her own tribe.
Tattoos on men serve the same purpose as war uniforms by making them
identifiable by their own tribe. The Maoris of New Zealand have elaborate
facial tattoos as marks of distinction and esteem. Some Indian tribes also
tattoo their body. In modern societies tattooing can be a form of personal
adornment or can indicate ones affinity/allegiance to a group. The Japanese
Yakuza have a tradition of tattooing which has symbolic meaning. In a western
society, tattooing is commonly seen among sailors, biker groups etc. Today
tattooing is fairly common among the youth across the world.
2 Body Painting which includes face painting
has its roots in sacred ritual. Girls in some
Congolese tribes oil themselves all over and
dust on red powered camwood in order to look
more attractive. Noble ladies of some ancient
Chinese dynasties as well as Japanese ‘geisha’
girls applied very heavy face make-up with
the powder of ground rice and white lead.
Application of rose petal rouge on cheeks and
centre of the lower lip, simulated a tinypursued
mouth, considered to be very
beautiful. The modern cosmetic industry
thrives and flourishes due to the interest of
women for ‘painting’ their faces.

Sumerian Costume

The most basic form for both men and women was the simple ankle-length, wraparound
skirt. The sculpture of a priest shows him in a long kaunakes skirt tied at
the waist, while the excess waistband forms an animal-like tail hanging loosely at
the back.

Babylonian costume

The earlier, thicker, tufted kaunakes skirt was
transformed into a draped look worn by both
sexes. Those of high rank wore elaborately
draped large woven shawls edged with fringes
and tassels while lower ranks wore simple linen
skirts. A typical style was of the shawl draped
under the armpits across the body with the
excess fabric covering the left arm and thrown
over the left shoulder leaving the right shoulder
and arm bare. The style almost prefigures the
Greek Himation or Roman Toga two thousand
years later.

Assyrian costume

The Assyrians wore either rectangular or semi-circular draped shawls with the
short-sleeve tunic. Another small square or rectangular shawl was worn like an
apron at the back, while the semi-circular shawl was draped around the torso. The
amount of fringe edging also indicated rank.

Egyptian Costume

A characteristic of Egyptian costume was that it covered the
lower body, leaving parts of the upper body bare. Egyptian
clothing was mainly draped and pleated. The basic garment for
men was the schenti which was a single strip of linen wrapped
around the hips, worn by all classes, except for the fact that the
Pharaoh’s schenti was much finer and often pleated. Similar to
the Indian drape, the common way of wearing it was diagonally
across the hips with one end tucked in at the waist and the
other hanging free in front. Male royalty also draped a large
transparent material around the body knotted at the waist
creating elaborate folds at the hips called the haik. Women
wore the sheath-like tunic called kalasaires.

Religious costume was an important part of Egyptian clothing.
When the shawl was not draped but merely placed flat on the
shoulder, it became a ritual garment which covered the arms
but left the hands bare.

Greek Costume

Ancient Greek and Roman costumes were draped in a traditional manner. Draped styles
of dress were characterized by the arrangement of large pieces of rectangular, oval or
crescent-shaped fabric which were folded, pleated, pinned or belted around the body in
different ways. This style of dressing utilized the entire fabric ensuring there was no
waste. In spite of influences from other countries, Greek costumes did not undergo any
major transformation.

Classical Greek costumes were based on two principles:
The first was that a unisex rectangular piece of cloth woven in varying sizes was the
basis of all draped styles, be it a tunic or a cloak.
The second was that this cloth was always draped around the body according to
certain norms, but not cut or shaped. There were vast possibilities of drapes that
could arise out of this rectangular fabric, as seen in the examples of architectural
draping at different temples.
Greek costume for men
The basic costume was the Chiton, a rectangle of cloth usually wool. It formed a tunic
fastened on the left shoulder leaving the right arm free or on both shoulders. This could
be worn with one or two belts at the waist. Without a belt this tunic hung loosely and
served as a night garment. When lengthened, it became a ceremonial or festive costume.
It could also be draped around the body like the Indian shawl.
Another male garment was the enveloping cloak called Himation made of a single large
(6′ x 9′) piece of cloth, swathed around the body without fixed fastenings. This cloak was
versatile in its draped style:
It could be worn alone, baring the right arm, shoulder and upper chest.
It could also wrap the wearer up to the chin covering the arms and the head.
It could be used as a blanket at night.
Greek costume for women
All Greek women wore the Peplos which was essentially a rectangular shawl with a
fibula or brooch/ decorative pin on the shoulder and was usually open on one side. This
open peplos was usually not belted at the waist. Greek women also wore the closed peplos
by seaming the two free edges of the fabric together.

Roman Costume

Roman costume was more class-based than that of the Greeks and reflected the society’s formal distinctions between its own citizens and outsiders, within a highly organized system of rules. The civilian costumes of the Romans were broadly classified into two categories:
Those which were slipped over the head
Those which were wound around the body.

The wrapped garment was a Roman cloak called toga. Originally it was an outer garment for both sexes which also served as a blanket at night. The draped cloak was made of a large piece of cloth cut as a segment of a circle. Gradually the toga became extremely wide and complicated especially when used as a ceremonial garment. The elite indicated social
status through various interesting ways of slanting or crossed drapery to which bands of specific colours were added for distinction.

Women wore a tunic with the draped palla which was the equivalent to the male toga. It was a large square or rectangular piece of cloth folded lengthwise and held on each shoulder with the fibula. It could partly cover the head and partly mask the face.

Ancient War Costumes

The earliest examples of clothing worn by warriors are found in Sumerian culture. The soldiers wore a long fringed skirtover which a wide band of nailed leather re-enforced with metal studs for protecting the back and chest was thrown over the left shoulder and hanging down the back. They also wore rawhide caps and copper helmets sometimes fitted with chin straps and padded with wool and leather.

Like the civilian population, the Egyptian soldiers wore the white schenti while troops
of tributary nations could wear coloured or striped versions. It was layered with a leather
apron and a belt of coloured cloth or leather. The head was protected by a padded wig or a
war-cap of thick cloth. Officers wore a Kalasaires with torso armour of leather or linen.
The light armour was suitable for the climate but not very effective in terms of
protection.
(iii) Greek soldiers wore a short draped woolen cloak called chlamys (Fig 1.22) made of a
strong, tightly-woven yarn fastened on the shoulder or back to cover both shoulders.
During warfare it could be wound around the left arm to deflect blows. The Greek cavalry
wore a leather jerkin strengthened with bronze disks, shoulder pieces and leather
leggings. The infantry wore the chest armour called cuirasse (Fig 1.23) made of sewn or
riveted metal scales re-enforced on the shoulders and chestover the padded tunic. The
helmet with a round crown, nose and cheek guards was made of shaped metal plates.

The Roman legionary and infantrymen wore the padded inner tunic with reinforced
chest under the coat of mail under the cuirasse to protect the wearer from burning hot or
icy cold metal. It consisted of overlapping plates of metal riveted to leather straps which
covered the chest, shoulders and waist.
The cuirasse of the Emperor or those of higher rank was made of embossed metal plates
depicting battle scenes with leather tabs trimmed with metal over the shoulders and
abdomen.

Roman accessories consisted of a broad belt of leather to which a leather apron could be
attached. They also wore sturdy boots with thick soles and several crisscrossing leather
thongs with shin greaves. The helmet originally of bronze and later of iron, had a smooth
crown with a plume of feathers, neck flange, cheek guards and a fixed visor with a slit for
the eyes. The gloves/gauntlets were lined with cloth or leather.

Japanese war costume

The Samurai armour indicates the prestigious status of the
warrior class of the feudal Japan. Early Samurai armour and
helmets developed in complexity over the centuries. To
facilitate free and rapid movement of the sword and for
protection against the opponent, Japanese armour consisted
of several lacquered metal plates, laced tightly with coloured
silk, helmets, breast plate, belts, wraps, detachable shoulder
plates, arm plates, thigh plates to create a variety of styles
until the whole body was protected.

Infants Clothing

Infants are children from the age category of 3
months to 1 year. An infant’s, weight, head size and
age are the major criteria’s to be considered while
selecting a garment. The head size of a small child is
one fifth of his height, while for an adult it is one
eighth of the body height.

Fabrics like flannel, jersey knits, polar fleece in
cottons and other natural fibers are selected for
infants. These are soft in handfeel and provide
comfort to the tiny wearer who has supple and
sensitive skin. Subtle, pastel colours with polka dots,
nursery prints, checks and cartoon characters are
preferred for prints. Solid colour fabrics are also in
huge demand for garments. Trims used in infant’s
garments are less complicated and easy to handle like
Velcro, snap buttons, soft laces etc. Globalization has
created a huge market for branded clothing for this
age group in India, over the past few years.